What’s in a Name?

Name changing can be game changing, and in a town that prides itself on historic preservation, Paul’s Family Diner on Route 46 is no exception. During the brief time when the namesake diner was switched out to City Lights, the community responded with backlash, and Paul’s reverted back to the original name.

Now, Paul’s, the legendary circa 1947 diner known for classic comfort food and big portions, lives on as a Borough institution. That’s just one memory of the younger Paul Zorlas, a lifelong Laker and grandson of the late Paul Zorlas, the original owner, a Greek immigrant who built the diner from the ground up. Paul, who pretty much grew up in the diner, knows the history well. While not quite in the family picture yet, he spoke of a time when Route 46 was all but a dirt road and diners resembled traditional rail or “lunch” cars.

“There was actually a company that made the rail cars, and they would be delivered on a flat bed,” he says. “When the diner grew to capacity, another larger rail car would take its place.”

Customers would dine countertop-style, the grill and cooks in plain view. This was post-World War II, and business in the area was booming. Factories gave rise to swing shifts as well as standard-issue late-night revelers in need of a bite.

“It was the ‘last food until Pennsylvania,’ stop before Route 80 came about,” Paul says. Paul’s Diner accommodated round-the-clock culture by remaining open 24 hours, 364 days of the year. “We were closed on Christmas and on Christmas Eve. My grandfather used to hand out free Manhattans,” he says.

A Long History  

The Zorlas family poured 50 years into the business and sold it following the death of its patriarch founder, the eldest Paul Zorlas.

The new owners, who were two brothers and responsible for the unpopular name change, took over only to pass the baton to current proprietor John Koletis, near the turn of the century. An established restauranteur, he understood the sanctity of the eatery’s namesake history—he gives mention to it on the menu—complete with a vintage photo.

While Koletis returned to the flagship name, he renovated it to its present metallic exterior and made small updates to the inside as well. Passersby may notice “family” added to the signage, as well as the standard special of the day: “Souvlaki today is Chicken Marsala tomorrow.”

Inside, the layout remains the same as when Koletis took the reins. The countertop with swivel stools is still intact, and there are plenty of booths to slide into with ease.

True to Jersey diner heritage, blackboard specials are hand-written in chalk, and a display of freshly baked pies, pastries, and cakes greets incoming customers, while mints at the register send them on their way.

Anna Zorlas, the late Paul’s daughter, was 10 years old when the diner opened and has a lifetime of memories. Like her nephew, she, too, grew up in the diner and eventually assumed ownership, along with her sisters, Maria, Roberta, and Maggie. This was after the passing of their father.

Anna can attest to the preparation of food from scratch, such as freshly ground meat patties. “He had his own meat grinder,” she says of the original Paul Zorlas. “And he made his own roast beef and turkeys.”

The daughter of a diner owner, Anna and her five siblings were treated to homemade sandwiches from the diner for school lunches. It was a time before schools provided hot meals. As the diner continued to make a name for itself, a loyal customer base followed suit.

“People who worked in the area would call ahead and ask us to save them a meal,” she says. “They’d ask when Paul would be back from fishing. They knew the fish would be fresh.”

When Anna, who is nearing 90, and her sisters took over, they dialed back the all-hours service to just midnight. “We used to get a lot of truckers, but that was before Route 80,” she says. “There was no McDonald’s or Burger Kings in the area yet.”

Even with its abbreviated hours, the diner was still a source of joy for generations of the Zorlas family, and kinship has its privileges.

“I remember Paul coming in through the back with all his friends,” Anna reflects. “And many of my grandnieces and nephews would like coming in through the back. It was a big deal.”

A Community Establishment

The family business was an all-hands-on-deck operation, and on-the-job training was just how it rolled. Anna has worn many hats, from line cook to waitress, dishwasher, and beyond.

Paul’s was also the employment destination for many Mountain Lakes High School students. Same goes for the former Black Bull Inn, which was owned by John Zorlas, son of the original Paul, and brother to Anna, and still living in Mountain Lakes. John Zorlas sold the original Black Bull Inn in 1984 to Art McGreevey, who owned several Morris County restaurants including Arthur’s Steakhouse in Morris Plains.

To date, Anna is still approached by former customers who wag a loving finger and an equally as loving dig, as in “Why’d you go and sell that diner?”

Despite the change in hands—it’s been decades now—she and her nephew Paul both still frequent the eatery, and the food continues to deliver on point.

The menu stays true to traditional diner staples—think large breakfasts, burgers, and fries. “Who doesn’t like disco fries?” adds the current owner, Koletis. But it also accommodates the diverse appetites of today.

“Avocado wasn’t a thing like it is now,” Koletis says. Yes, there’s avocado toast and timeless popular breakfast classics such as eggs and pancakes. While the townscape and eating trends have changed, the convenience of dining out has not. “I have people come here three times a day, not wanting to cook,” he says.

Like the Zorlas family, he has his regulars, but the role of the diner as the end-all, be-all destination for teenagers has somewhat diminished. “We’ll still get them, but we trend toward families and retirees,” he says.

Looking Back

When it comes to the inevitable cost of living increases, Anna and Paul wax nostalgic over menu pricing.

“I remember a plate of eggs, bacon, home fries, and toast costing 95 cents,” she says. “Now it’s almost $10.”

Anna has an old menu somewhere, “maybe in the attic,” she says. CBS was on location, too, for an expose on the diner. “I was the one interviewed,” she says. There’s a tape somewhere.

Paul, too, has a vintage menu, only this one was his father’s restaurant, The Black Bull Inn, which was situated also on Route 46, where Barka Steak and Seafood now stands.

“Surf and turf was $5.50 and steak was $4.50,” he says. “It’s crazy to think about that.”

During the holidays, the extended Zorlas family still keeps the diner front and center in their lives. There were 20 of them recently, and they all came hungry.

“They wanted to try everything,” Anna says. “When the bill came, the check was $400.00.”

While Paul opted out of the family business, he still calls Mountain Lakes home. His three children went through the school district, with his youngest having graduated last year.

To the tune of the more things change, the more they stay the same, the name remains a fixture. As do the memories. Check please.

Photographs courtesy of Paul Zorlas, the Mountain Lakes Historical Preservation Committee, and Ellen S. Wilkowe